Ampersand Wine Bar brings rustic fare and $6 glasses of wine to Ravenswood.
Review: Ampersand Wine Bar
4845 N. Damen Ave. 773-728-0031
Rating: !! and a half (out of four) Take it or leave it
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There’s something oddly refreshing about a menu that doesn’t have too many choices. Maybe I’m just indecisive, but laminated, novel-length menus stress me out. That isn’t a problem at Ampersand Wine Bar, Ravenswood’s newest eatery by Charlie Trotter vet Darren McGraw and former iNG executive chef Tim Havidic. The incredibly simple dinner menu is broken into four sections and includes 20 or so items that are always on rotation. “It’s a small space, it’s a small crew and it’s a tiny, tiny kitchen,” McGraw said. “Philosophically, it just speaks to doing a few things well and not doing everything OK.”
My date and I hopped on the Brown Line and ventured north on a Friday night to see if Ampersand lives up to its bold tagline: “Approachable wines. Rustic comfort food. Damn good desserts.”
Close encounter
Situated on the east side of Damen Avenue, Ampersand’s front window drenches the restaurant in the kind of light that’s made for daydreams. It’s an ideal spot for a cozy date night, catching up with a friend or grabbing a bite with parents. With just less than 40 seats—including the 16 stools around the bar—this isn’t the place to come with a big group. When my date and I walked in, I was surprised to see owner McGraw manning the host station, greeting guests with warm hellos and wait times. Though we were given a 30-minute estimate, a table for two next to the enormous window opened after 15 minutes. While we snagged one of the rare two-seaters, McGraw said his favorite spot in the house is at the bar, overlooking the action. “The idea is to evoke the feeling of my home—or what I imagine my home to be when I have guests—and that is a large counter where people can pull up and I can cook while I talk with them,” he said. “Most of the guests will get a front-row seat to what we’re doing.”
Approachable wines: check
At first glance, the wine list looks like any other, but on closer inspection, there are a few things you’ll notice. Even if you’re not a wine snob, you can probably pronounce a lot of the names on the menu (Nadler, Pinot Project, Villa Wolf and Palmina, to name a few). There were several labels available for $6 a glass that night, and I’m not talking about a happy hour special. “I really just wanted to make it affordable—those are the wines I’m going after,” McGraw said. “It’s not big names from the priciest real estate in the world, but maybe it’s down the road from that real estate.”
Out of the 29 by-the-glass choices that night, 18 were priced at less than $10. I went with the Nadler rosé ($9)—a super-pale pour that’s practically made for patio sipping—while my date peeked at the cocktail list and ordered the Parenthetical, a blend of bourbon, tarragon, watermelon, cayenne and bitters. Our drinks arrived looking summery and fresh, but here’s one thing you should never have to say about a cocktail after college: “This tastes like a liquid watermelon Jolly Rancher.”
Unfortunately, my date’s awesome-sounding drink was far too sweet and artificial tasting. My rosé, on the other hand, was delightful. I’ve been swimming in rosé this summer (who hasn’t?), but this was my favorite glass so far.
Of course
After a few sips, our server was back to chat food. I mentioned this before, but the menu is separated into four numbered sections: appetizers, mains, sides and desserts and coffee. With only a few options per course, my date and I rattled off everything we wanted from the first three sections. Before I tell you what happened next, can I get a show of hands for how many of you have heard a server say something along these lines in the past six months: “We recommend that you order everything at once, and I’ll course it out appropriately.” OK, cool, we’re all on the same page.
Out first was the burrata with duck prosciutto and arugula ($12). Because I was expecting a huge hunk of creamy burrata, I was a bit disappointed when I saw the frothy specks of cheese that dotted the salad. But it was the foamy texture that helped the cheese stick to every tender leaf and salty prosciutto chunk. Up next was everything else. No, really. As soon as we scraped the salad plate clean, our server delivered another appetizer, two entrees and two sides. We devoured the sweet corn with blue crab and tomatillo ($13, but not currently available—Ampersand’s menu is constantly changing), bland-at-best soft-shell crab fritters glued to the plate with corn and tomatillo sauces, and debated which dish to try next, hoping we could taste everything before it all went cold.
Meat your match
Chilled veggies sounded better than chilled meats, so we dug into the entrees—Calabrian pork cheek with pearl onion, agrodolce and heirloom tomato ($15) and beef short rib with cauliflower and chile ($15)—and weren’t disappointed. Both cuts were melt-in-your-mouth tender and accompanied by sauces that made me want to forget everything I learned in cotillion and lick the plates clean. The pork cheek, served in a traditional Italian sweet-and-sour broth, quickly became the star of the evening. “Slow and low is the motto in the kitchen,” McGraw said. “Most pieces of meat cook for eight to 12 hours.”
Between bites, we scooped up spoonfuls of the charred summer succotash ($6) and roasted asparagus with salsa verde ($6). Though the latter fell flat and we didn’t see or taste anything that resembled salsa verde, the succotash—a bright blend of charred summer veggies including pearl onions, squash, fava beans and corn—was a huge hit (albeit a little cold at this point). When I asked McGraw about coursing, he said diners are free to order all at once or course by course, so I’m chalking up this malfunction to opening jitters.
Remixed classics
By the end of our rushed three-course marathon, I was ready to slow down and take my time with dessert. We opted for the strawberry shortcake ($8) and chocolate with brioche and raspberry ($8). “Damn good desserts” isn’t false advertising. The deconstructed strawberry shortcake is formulated with shortcake-flavored mousse (yes, that’s a thing), marinated berries, basil caramel and chunks of flaky shortbread. Everything is packed in a petite jar that’s perfect for sharing. My biggest regret of the evening was not ordering the platter of cookies, candies and chocolates ($8/$14) after I saw it delivered to a nearby table. While it sounds forgettable, the platter was chock-full of tender jellies, chocolaty cookies and bite-size creations that looked delicious.
The bottom line
McGraw stripped away the pretense of a traditional city wine bar when he opened the doors at Ampersand. With the feel of a neighborhood gem and a wine list that’s priced just right, you don’t have to break the bank to get the full experience. I’d venture back for a glass of wine (or three) and dessert any time. McGraw said that at the end of the day, he isn’t worried about pleasing the masses—he’s keeping his eyes on the Ravenswood community. “We may get the tourists, we may get the people who come because we’re in the paper, but after that dies down, we’re still a neighborhood joint, and that’s who we really want to focus on,” he said.
Reporters visit bars unannounced, and meals are paid for by RedEye.
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