Bartender Liz Pearce breaks out on her own with The Drifter.
Review: The Drifter
676 N. Orleans St. 312-631-3887
Rating: !!! (out of 4) Off to a good start
Authentic probably isn’t the first word that comes to mind when you think of the River North bar scene. (We’ll let you fill in that blank.) Bartender Liz Pearce—known for her stints at The Drawing Room and The Gage—hopes to change that with The Drifter, a speakeasy-style bar that’s tucked away in the basement of Green Door Tavern.
As soon as the 31-year-old saw the space, which previously was used for events and private parties, she knew she had to have it. Unlike other Prohibition-style bars—and there are plenty—The Drifter comes with an authentic history. From what Pearce has heard through the grapevine, the building used to house an Italian market, which was actually a cover for a not-so-hidden speakeasy.
Open Wednesday through Saturday, the bar offers a rotating menu of specialty cocktails, quirky performances and, as Pearce described it, “an intangible aura with a genuine feel.” My date and I ventured out on a Thursday night to see what the buzz was about. Through Green Door Tavern, down the stairs and around the corner we went—until we came upon a couple waiting outside a knickknack-covered door. This must be it.
Knock first
I have to admit, I’m happy that couple arrived ahead of us. They led by example, providing all the social cues we needed to get in—not that you need a secret password or anything. Their knock was answered by a friendly bouncer who escorted them inside—giving us a glimpse into the dimly lit, super-small space before the camouflaged door closed again. He returned a moment later to tell us the bar was at capacity (there’s room for 37—damn that couple!) but that we could step inside to take a look at the menu. He handed us a small deck of tarot cards, apologized profusely for the wait and returned to his post next to the door.
Dealer’s choice
Without further instruction, it took us a moment to realize that the tarot cards were the menu. Each card represents a drink: A clever name is printed at the top, and the description sits below a classic tarot illustration. Pearce said the unique concept aligned with her sometimes-fickle personality. “It was important for me to have a menu that was easily changeable so we could swap out drinks to keep things fresh,” she said. “I get bored really easily, so I wanted to be able to change up my menu often.” Each night, the staff selects seven to 11 drinks from the 45-card stack. Like a real tarot card reading, some of the choice is left to chance. But to ensure a well-rounded menu, Pearce said she intervenes here and there.
We flipped through the deck and plotted our first drinks: For me, the Leblon James Vesper (cachaca, gin, grapefruit liqueur, vermouth and chamomile bitters) and for my date, World Class Aspirations (apple brandy, mezcal, agave and bitters). We agreed to wait until we were seated to order, as we already felt in the way without drinks in hand. As if on cue, the bouncer came over to let us know it would be a bit longer—a group of 15-plus patrons dressed in steampunk garb had descended on the tight space and a 21st birthday party was heating up at the other end of the bar. Translation: Barstools weren’t in our near future, so we caved and ordered our first round.
Make new friends, but keep the old
Lucky for us, there was a lot to look at while we waited. If you’re going with the speakeasy theme, you might as well go all out—a thought that wasn’t lost on Pearce. She inherited a pile of antiques that had been collecting dust in the basement space and decided to give them a second life as bar decor. A bullet-ridden Mobil Oil Pegasus hangs directly across from the American flag-draped bar. Opposite the knick-knacked entryway, there’s a small stage (more on that later) concealed by a curtain, which doubles as a screen for projected “vintage soft-core—old burlesque, girls running around in underwear—Chicago at the turn of the century, just interesting bits and pieces,” Pearce said. The leather banquettes and vintage-inspired light fixtures are the only new pieces in the space.
Sips and small plates
Our drinks arrived moments later. Upon first sip, my date and I agreed this would be no place to spend your 21st birthday. The cocktails are strong, complex and full of flavor—something I couldn’t appreciate until I’d tasted every variety of Smirnoff vodka. Leblon James—more of a nod to Leblon cachaca than the Cleveland Cavaliers player—was packed with florally citrus flavors that smelled almost too good to drink (almost), and World Class Aspirations was warm and boozy with notes of apple. Halfway through the drinks, we were escorted to a table at the far end of the bar. Armed with a small plates menu and our tarot cards, we decided it was time to order a snack to balance out our booze fest. With only five options to choose from—most sourced from Green Door Tavern’s kitchen, others prepared behind the bar—we opted for sausage-stuffed peppers with tomato fondue ($8) and olives ($6). Both plates were just OK—the peppers were rubbery and generally flavorless and the olives were, well, olives. “We want people to be able to eat something to soak up the strong drinks, but there’s not a lot of room down there,” Pearce said. “We had to come up with things that are easy to eat with your hands and share. I chose the stuff I like to eat when I’m drinking.”
We moved on to our second round of drinks: B.B. Gun (vodka, gin, spiced pear liqueur, ginger and prosecco) for me, Bols in a Vice (sherry, gin, Campari, sea salt and orange juice) for him. We both agreed the B.B. Gun was the star of the night. The light pink, delicate cocktail—served with a speared chunk of candied ginger—was punctuated with light bubbles and a hint of pear.
A juggler walked into a bar
Our wait was redeemed by the Silver Fox, an adorable, white-haired juggler who took the stage soon after we were seated. He juggled balls and rings, balanced stuff on his nose and provided 15 minutes of unbridled happiness for a crowd of 20-somethings. Later, a contortionist made the stage her jungle gym and put my yoga skills to shame. The entertainment can’t be described as young, trendy or mainstream—and that’s a feat in River North. “We’re casual, gritty and rough around the edges. We are definitely trying to pick entertainment that goes with that,” Pearce said. “It’s not beautiful women taking their tops off, there’s no pop music—we’re going for a more eccentric crowd.”
The bottom line
A hidden speakeasy-style bar in River North has all the makings to be pretentious and exclusive, neither of which describe The Drifter. The friendly staff, oddball performers and intimate vibe make this place approachable and impressive. Just when I thought speakeasy-style bars were so overdone, The Drifter redeems with expertly crafted cocktails and a rotating menu that lures you to return again and again.
THE DRIFTER BY THE NUMBERS
45 – total cocktails in Pearce’s tarot card arsenal
37 – total capacity for the bar
$12 – price tag on each specialty cocktail
7-11 – specialty cocktails selected and served each night
10 – number of cocktails Pearce hopes to add to the menu before summer
9 – number of barstools
5 – total number of bartenders, all of which Pearce describes as “real badass chicks”
3 – average number of performers per night
RedEye reporters visit bars unannounced and drinks are paid for by RedEye. redeye@redeyechicago.com | @redeyeeatdrink
