www.redeyechicago.com/entertainment/restaurants-bars/redeye-review-bullhead-cantina-20120223,0,7312210.story

redeyechicago.com

Mini-review: Bullhead Cantina

By Emily Van Zandt

RedEye

10:15 AM CST, February 23, 2012

Advertisement

 Rating: !! 1/2 (out of four) Take it or leave it

The scene: This cozy, low-key Humboldt Park bar has a beer-and-a-shot (and a taco) vibe. I was surrounded by young friends from the neighborhood during my weeknight visit, and also had my latest "baby in a bar" sighting, thanks to a large group decked in Mardi Gras beads accompanied by one very well-behaved infant. It’s cash only, but there’s an ATM inside.

The food: You’ll find a few burgers on the menu, but tacos are the main event. For $3 a pop, tasty corn tortillas come filled with options such as grilled chicken, spicy avocado, grilled sweet potato and beef brisket. An order of three is plenty filling and Bullhead doesn’t skimp on the toppings, sometimes to a fault when they overwhelm the meat. Better than your average bar taco, but not quite Big Star (if you’re into that kind of thing).

The drinks: There are plenty of weeknight beer deals, and Miller High Life and PBR share the bill with craft options such as Bells Two Hearted and Great Lakes Eliot Ness. A short list of cocktails includes mostly whiskey-based sippers for $6-$8, but we found ‘em to be a bit weak.

The trip: Bullhead’s right next to the intersection of California and Division, and either of those buses are decent options for the trip to Humboldt Park. If you’re looking for a new, laid-back spot to try and you live nearby, go for it. But if you’re going to have to travel back to Pilsen or North Center or beyond, it’s most likely not worth the trip.

Bottom line: Bullhead already feels lived-in, despite only being open a few weeks. It’s a great relaxed weekend spot for those in the neighborhood, but not a destination bar.