Erin M. Sarris | For Red Eye
February 21, 2012
If you’re looking for adventure at 4 Suyos (2727 W. Fullerton Ave. 773-278-6525), a new Logan Square Peruvian restaurant, ask for a Leche de Tigre – a drink made from ceviche marinade and a bit of booze.
Sound a bit scary? Co-owner Erin Slucter would have once agreed with you, but after two years of dating her Peru-born boyfriend, Humberto Trujillo, who is also the chef and co-owner, she’s come around. If you’re looking for a more traditional choice, the staff at this BYOB spot will be happy to mix a more standard option such as a pisco sour if you come with your own liquor in tow.
Open since late January, this restaurant is the mid-30s couple’s first foray into the dining scene.
“[Humberto] would not stop talking about opening a restaurant, and eventually I started helping him scout locations, design a logo,” said Slucter, who also works in communications.
The 34-seat table-service eatery is cozy and casual, drawing both neighborhood folks and those who are well-versed in Peruvian fare, such as Trujillo’s soccer buddies. “I love serving the people that haven’t had Peruvian food,” said Slucter. “Those are the most fun to have dine with us.”
Peruvian fare draws its eclectic influences from a wide global palate—Mexican, Cuban, Italian, French, Chinese and African—with unique ingredients that are spicy but curiously not that hot, says Slucter. The country’s coastal location means its cuisine is heavy on seafood, featuring everything from steamed fish to deep-fried filets. Ceviche is a favorite, but unlike its Mexican counterpart, you won’t find any tomatoes included; instead there are native peppers and seasonings such as garlic, ginger and cilantro.
It’s also arguable more carb-heavy than other Latin cuisine. Take the lomo saltado, a dish of sirloin strip steaks sauteed with onion, tomatoes and fried potato wedges, served with rice, which Slucter likens to a Chinese stir-fry. Another favorite (and vegetarian-friendly) dish is tallarin verde con champinones, fettuccini tossed in a basil pesto sauce with sautéed mushrooms.
4 Suyos is open Monday-Thursday from 5-10 p.m.; Friday 5-11 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Look for breakfast in the future. Visit the website and view the menu at www.4suyos.com.
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