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A shopper's guide to Eataly Chicago
Now that Eataly Chicago has been operating about a week, now that lines form daily in front of each of its 23 eateries, it's about time we recognize that Eataly Chicago, at its overstuffed heart, is also a market. A 63,000-square-foot wonderland, importing whole octopus from Spain, making mozzarella twice an hour. But fundamentally, still a market. Which sells, you know, milk, eggs. Also, dried black-eyed fagioli and bomb-shelter-size tins of Italian sardines. Ask Mario Batali — or any of the emporium's investors— what the ultimate goal of Eataly is, and they respond in unison: to encourage the home cook to assemble an Italian meal at home.
December 12, 2013