Something about Valentine’s Day brings out the view-seekers.
I receive all sorts of requests for restaurant recommendations during the year — which I actually enjoy getting, by the way — but early February seems to be romantic-view season.
“What’s the best view in Chicago?”
“Where can I go for a romantic dinner and a view of the lake?”
“Where can I get a great view for under $50?”
That last question always makes me a little sad, because I have to deliver the bad news that restaurants with impressive views generally charge impressive prices. Partly that’s because restaurants with nice views usually pay a lot of money in rent, and partly it’s because that’s what the market will bear. “You’re paying for the view” is how some people describe those restaurants. It’s pretty accurate.
As to the second question, I will never understand the fascination for a Lake Michigan view. Especially this time of year, if you’re having dinner at a sensible hour, Lake Michigan will be an inky-black blob, a dark expanse of nothingness. We don’t light up the lake at night. You might see a blinking boat light off in the distance, but that will be it. Now if you’re having lunch, or it’s the middle of summer, a lake view can be nice. But it would never weigh heavily in my dining decision.
And that leads to the most important question: Are you looking to dine or looking to gawk? Because, with a few exceptions, the more dramatic the view, the more perfunctory the food.
The two tallest public restaurants in the city are the Signature Room, on the 95th floor of the John Hancock Center (875 N. Michigan Ave., 312-787-9596), and Cite, which is on the top (70th) floor of Lake Point Tower (505 N. Lake Shore Drive, 312-644-4050). Both offer stupendous views of the city and lake; both offer dining experiences that don’t begin to match the spectacular scenery.
I usually suggest just visiting for a drink and an appetizer, but in the evening, the Signature Room actually requires an entree order per guest. With your expectations set properly and the right table (all table views are not created equal), you’ll be OK.
You want a view while saving some bucks? Go to the Signature Lounge, on the 96th floor, and have drinks. There’s even a lounge menu if you’re hungry. Better still, hit the Signature Room for lunch, when prices are lower, the tourist component is smaller and you can actually see the lake.
The best tall restaurant in Chicago is Everest (440 S. LaSalle St., 312-663-8920), 40 floors above the Loop. Here, Jean Joho’s food is absolutely wonderful and worth every penny you’ll spend (and you’ll spend quite a few). The view, however, looking straight west, is devoid of architectural interest (Everest’s private rooms have much better city views). My favorite time to visit Everest is in the summer, when the dinner hour coincides with sunset.
The newest dining-with-a-view destination is The J. Parker (1816 N. Clark St., 312-254-4747), atop the Hotel Lincoln. For the past two summers, the open-air J. Parker has been a magnet for outdoor dining, but the restaurant just unveiled a retractable glass rooftop that turns this 13th-floor space into a year-round restaurant, without sacrificing any of its park, lake and downtown skyline views. Add to that a new menu by chef Paul Virant (whose Perennial Virant restaurant is downstairs, at street level), which offers dishes such as beef shank chili and an ever-changing charcuterie platter, to such already popular items as the dry-aged-beef burger and soy-glazed chicken wings.
Other restaurants that I think are worth, um, viewing:
NoMI Kitchen: The dining room in the Park Hyatt Chicago hotel has huge windows that overlook the historic Water Tower and Michigan Avenue. It’s a beautiful view, day or night. Possible disadvantage: At the seventh floor, you’re not that high up (but that’s what I like about the view, feeling like you’re part of the city rather than above it all). 800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030
North Pond: I can’t think of any other Chicago restaurant more perfectly matched to its setting. The best tables at this Lincoln Park restaurant overlook the restaurant’s namesake, North Pond (and a glimpse of downtown in the distance), but the entire restaurant is full of Arts and Crafts-inspired visual interest. Bruce Sherman’s food is terrific, and you can always take in the view by stepping outside. Possible disadvantage: Only very few tables offer that pond view. 2610 N. Cannon Drive, 773-477-5845
Riva Crab House: Window tables at this Navy Pier seafood house have beautiful lake and skyline views, and, in summer, Navy Pier’s twice-weekly fireworks displays. Diners can valet-park at Riva, a nice feature. Possible disadvantage: High demand for those window seats. 700 E. Grand Ave., 312-644-7482
Sixteen: You could make the case that this restaurant offers the best views in Chicago. It’s low enough (16th floor) to give viewers a nice sense of scale, it includes such architectural treats as the Wrigley Building and Tribune Tower, and, especially if you step out onto the terrace, you can see the Chicago River as well as Lake Michigan. Best of all, you can’t see that obnoxious “TRUMP” sign from here. Possible disadvantage: Extraordinarily high prices, though I’d argue that, under chef Thomas Lents, Sixteen is one of the very finest restaurants in Chicago and justifies its price with luxurious surroundings and top-notch service. 401 N. Wabash Ave., 312-588-8030
Spiaggia: Chicago’s finest and most-refined Italian restaurant has two-story windows overlooking Oak Street Beach (spiaggia means “beach”), and the tiered floors and perfectly positioned tables ensure everyone gets the view. The cuisine, by executive chef Chris Marchino, is superb, and a new, no-reservations lounge allows you to enjoy the view without the big-bucks dinner commitment. Possible disadvantages: price; not much to see once the sun goes down. 980 N. Michigan Ave., 312-280-2750
Terzo Piano: The third-floor perch atop the Art Institute’s modern wing offers good views of Michigan Avenue architecture; outdoor area overlooks Millennium Park. Possible disadvantage: Only open for dinner one night (Thursday) per week. 159 E. Monroe St., 312-443-8650
Travelle: This high-end restaurant in the Langham Hotel is gorgeous on its own, and the adjacent lounge offers up-close views of the river and the Loop. Possible disadvantage: No significant views in the restaurant itself; you’ll have to have your after-dinner coffee in the lounge. 330 N. Wabash Ave., 312-923-7705
Twitter @philvettel
